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Instead of spending the entire two minutes playing with your smartphone, enjoy the eclipse! Some smartphone cameras make a few seconds of exposure for night imaging but they need to be installed on tripod or a platform. Try to find apps that control the camera focus and set it manually at infinity. DON'T HAVE A LOT OF GEAR? USE YOUR SMARTPHONEīabak Tafreshi: Focus is the main challenge during totality since the light wouldn't be enough for autofocusing. It was 2 degrees Fahrenheit as the eclipse started, so many heavy layers of clothing for me and several batteries for each camera were required. I set remote shutter release intervalometers to trigger the shutter every minute during the eclipse for both cameras. As the moon moved off the face of the sun, I put the filters back on and shot the ending partial phase. Seconds before totality, I pulled off the filters from both lenses and shot the total phase without filters. Then, with the telephoto lens, I concentrated on getting just the sun in the frame.īoth lenses had Thousand Oaks Optical solar filters made of black polymer taped to the front of the lens for the beginning partial phase of the eclipse.
#How to see the eclipse with your phone series#
Stan Honda: I shot a time-lapse series of the sun and moon moving across the sky with the wide-angle lens and a custom-made filter holder. Photograph by Stan Honda SPEAKING OF CREATIVE. The first total solar eclipse Stan Honda photographed was in March 2015 in the town of Longyearbyen on the island of Spitsbergen in Svalbard, which is an archipelago of islands about 600 miles from the North Pole.
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Prior to the eclipse, I make sure the filters do not create strong flares. I like ambient light and prefer not to use flash.Īnd a proper solar filter for partial phases, either a glass Thousand Oaks filter or Baader Planetarium Solar Film. For decent closeup images, I use a minimum 400mm telephoto (o 200mm + 2X extender) or a small telescope. GEAR UPīabak Tafreshi: I bring both a wide field and fast telephoto lens. Wide-field imaging allow you to rush out of bad weather even an hour before eclipse ( traffic dependent), but with the telescope set-up this is not doable. I might aim for telescopic images, then somewhere less windy with reliable weather is ideal.
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Using that information, you still have to scout out the location to see how things will move in relation to the environment.īabak Tafreshi: I will look for places near the beginning or the end of the path where totality happens after sunrise or before sunset. I will use the Clear Sky Chart with the weather forecast to make a more accurate assessment the day before the eclipse. Weather is a big consideration, so I’ll check the National Weather Service daily and use their data for forecasts a few days out. Both programs are helpful in figuring out how high the sun/moon will be from the horizon and ultimately what terrestrial features you can photograph with the eclipse. Stellarium allows you to see an altitude/azimuth grid on the sky to see where things are.
#How to see the eclipse with your phone free#
Stellarium is a free planetarium program that helps to figure out how wide a focal length you need for the wide angle time-lapse images. The Photographer’s Ephemeris (TPE) is good for determining the compass setting and altitude of the sun/moon.
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For solar eclipses, they superimpose the path on a Google map, so you can see pretty accurately where the best viewing places will be. Stan Honda:I use the NASA Eclipse page to see where the eclipse is visible and the local times. Related: Solar Eclipse 101 RESEARCH LOCATIONS